Celebrating the World’s Women on Mother’s Day

May 8, 2010 – 10:01 pm

Last summer, the NY Times ran a terrific pull-out section about empowerment of the world’s women. Inspired, I sent in a photo in response to their call for submissions. Well, today…I stumbled on it. The NY Times published the photo and my blurb. Wow! The whole collection is fun to browse through.  Here’s to all those mothers out there, the world over - Happy Mothers Day!  http://nyti.ms/nytimesphoto  More photos of Laos can be  found at http://www.paigestringer.com/photo-gallery-laos.shtml


Dream Big and Go!

February 27, 2010 – 12:26 pm

Here’s a chance to bring your most creative travel dreams to reality!  Gap Adventures is offering a “Create Your Own Adventure travel contest”. Between now and March 31, customize and enter your very own tour into the contest. The winning entry, as determined by user voting and Gap’s panel of judges will travel on the tour for FREE, along with two of their luckiest friends! The winning entry will also be featured in the 2011 Gap Adventures brochure. Feeling inspired?  Visit http://createyourownadventure.com/about/


Six More Weeks of Winter? Lets Ski!

February 2, 2010 – 6:05 pm

Punxsutawney Phil confirmed that we’ll have six more weeks of winter today in his annual Groundhog Day ritual.  For all you skiers and boarders out there, that means ski season is in full swing!  Instead of retreating back into the hole, shoot the hole!  Many resorts are experiencing a down year for snowfall, but here are three places with some epic pow pow where you can live out your Warren Miller Fantasy:

Mammoth Mountain, California

Southern California has been hit by a torrent of storms lately which means…tons of snow at Mammoth! On Feb 2, they had a 11 foot base - 132 inches of freshies.  Mammoth is blessed with over 3,500 skiiable acres that delivers something for everyone - steep terrain in Hangman’s Hollow for the double diamond experts, some of the best tree skiing in the state around Chair 22, well-groomed trails for intermediates in the Cornice Bowl, and several green trails for the beginner set. Gather in the village at the end of the day with your pals to rehash your skiing escapades over a pint or two.  

Fernie Alpine Resort, British Columbia
Fernie offers a wide variety of terrain with a backcountry feel. The resort is one of eight along southeast British Columbia’s Powder Alley - a relatively undiscovered region of easygoing ski towns and fresh powder. While everyone flocks to Whistler for the Olympics, head to Fernie and you’ll be in for a treat. Plenty of shoots, open pitches, and steep tree runs to be had. As of today, they are boasting 7 feet of white stuff after a recent dump of snow.

Les Trois Vallees, France

If you’re looking for an European ski adventure, try France’s Les Trois Vallees.  The 3 Valleys comprise the resorts of Courchevel, La Tania, Maribel, Brides-Les-Bains, Les Menuires - Saint Martin de Belleville, Val Thorens and Orelle.  These resorts are linked together by 180 ski lifts, with almost 400 miles of interconnected slopes, making it the largest ski area in the world.  If that wasn’t enough to tempt you, Courchevel and La Tania have enjoyed 10 inches of new snow since Jan 31!


Five Places to Visit in 2010

January 12, 2010 – 10:33 am

Its a new year..a shiny new start!  If the sour economy forced you to stay home in 2009, you might be itching to get out and explore the world.  And its a great time to go. Travel fares remain at bargain prices, allowing you to save some bucks while seeking out those authentic experiences around the globe.  So go ahead…linger over the Lonely Planet guidebooks and Nat Geo magazines for travel inspiration. Meanwhile, here are five of my suggestions for places to visit in 2010:

Luang Prabang, Laos - Luang Prabang is a small, ancient city tucked away in northern Laos at the junction of the picturesque Mekong and Nam Khan rivers where nature and community converge in an unassuming way.  Longboats run the rivers, rice fields line the banks, mountains paint the distant landscape, and the slow pace of life will envelop even the most harried traveler. This is the perfect place to while away the hours relaxing on the quay with a good book or simply get lost exploring the town.  Stay at the Lotus Villa Laos which, in my opinion, offers the best all-around experience.  The comfortable and clean guesthouse is located on a quiet street just a few blocks from the river and the center of town. They have a very friendly, well trained staff, and include breakfast and free bottled water in the tab. Bonus: Lotus Villa sits on the monks’ alms route. Simply step out the front door in the early morning to observe the time-honored tradition.

Chiang Mai, Thailand - Chiang Mai is growing fast, but it still has retained its cultural roots and a strong spiritual vibe.  Wander the winding streets of Old Town and enjoy ancient, beautiful temples at every turn. Impromptu festivals with traditional dancers are common occurances and the night market is a fun attraction. Visit the Muay Thai (kick-boxing) matches on Friday nights for a local experience.  When you tire of the noise and traffic, rent a motorbike and head to the hills on the 100 km Mae Sa Valley Samoeng Loop where you can enjoy waterfalls, mountain views, and small villages of hill tribes.  Back in Chiang Mai, visit the Good View restaurant (13 Th Charoenrat) for great Thai food and ambiance on the Mae Nam Ping River.

Reykjavik, Iceland - If you’ve always wanted to explore ice caps and volcanoes, and wallow in hot springs, now is the time to head to the natural beauty of Iceland.  Last year’s dramatic collapse of their currency made Iceland much more affordable than ever.  National air carrier Icelandair has also slashed fares in a bid to attract tourists.  Spend your Christmas in Reykjavik under the Northern Lights and enjoy the Christmas tree lighting in Austurvollur Square.

London, England  - Another destination that has suffered from the economic recession, London travel is at its cheapest right now.  With the city gearing up for the 2012 Olympics, London is certainly calling this year.  This is one of Europe’s best capitals because there is so much for the senses here. Spend the day uncovering centuries of history at London’s landmarks, galleries and museums - be sure to take advantage of the free admission to many of them.  Then head out to enjoy a thriving nightlife and theater scene.  The city’s pulsates with personality with those boxy black cabs, the red double deckers, the accented English, and the silhouette of Tower bridge above the muddy Thames.  Cap off your visit with a pint at one of London’s many watering holes - a favorite is the The Argyll Arms in Soho, just off Oxford Street.

Cape Town, South Africa -  The host of the 2010 FIFA World Cup has spent alot of money sprucing up for this summer’s event. Though South Africa has ragged edges of extreme poverty, the country has much to offer in terms of natural and cultural experiences.  In Johannesburg, head up to Mpumalanga and Kruger national parks for Big 5 safari. Hike Cape Town’s panoramic Table Mountain and be sure to visit the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, which are some of the most beautiful in the world.  Relax on the white sand beaches of False Bay.


Fixing Ears in Cambodia

November 1, 2009 – 11:49 am

During my recent travels in SE Asia, I was fortunate to spend an evening with Director Glyn Vaughan of All Ears Cambodia in Phnom Penh. What an amazing place and individual - both left a lasting impact on me and I continue to dwell over the experience.

Cambodia is an extremely poor country still recovering from years of war and strife from the Khmer Rouge regime. It does not allocate any government resources to its disabled people. As a result, thousands of hearing impaired children and adults are left without the education, hearing aids, or services they need to thrive and many end up destitute and/or reliant their entire lives on family for support.

An All Ears marketing piece indicates that “an estimated 2 million Cambodians suffer from disabling deafness…and over half of these cases could have been prevented.” In fact, chronic ear infections are so common that, in many villages, it is considered normal. And, of the ones in need of hearing aids, less than 1% have them.

Dr. Vaughan, a British audiologist, has made it his life’s mission to reverse some of these trends. He left his UK practice to move to Phomh Penh in 2003 to establish and run All Ears Cambodia full-time. He is the only degreed audiologist in the entire country, and his clinic is the only one of its kind in Cambodia. He self-trained two women and an assistant on the practice of audiology and now the four of them work relentlessly to provide support treatment, hearing aids, and rehabilitation to those in need in Phnom Penh and in many rural villages stretching across four provinces. The clinic also partners with 30 other NGOs that work with AIDS and landmine victims (hearing loss is a common side effect of AIDS). The organization supports the sole government audiology clinic at the state hospital through contributons of personel and through traning programs. They do a lot of education and awareness around hearing loss - how to protect your ears, what to do when you have an ear infection (don’t pour kerosene in your ear, for starters…). Glyn and his team also wrote the country’s first audiology manual in the Khmer language. The amount of work and the tremendous impact that this small group of committed people is making is incredible to comprehend.

Dr. Vaughan’s passion is inspiring and I thoroughly enjoyed hearing him share his experiences. If you are looking for a worthy cause to support, this would be a great one. For more information, please visit; www.allearscambodia.org


The Art of Silence

October 12, 2009 – 6:55 am

It seemed fitting that on the 999th anniversary of Hanoi’s liberation from invading armies, I paid a visit to an old soldier. Viet Hong Lam Pham traded his gun for a paintbrush almost 40 years ago after being deafened during an American bombing raid during the Vietnam War, and is now an accomplished artist. I read his story in a Vietnamese newspaper and was impressed by his current efforts to mentor young artists. I decided to contact him, and after a brief email exchange, he invited me for a visit to his home/studio.

My interpreter and I arrived in his neighborhood, a maze of winding streets on the edge of Hanoi so narrow that only foot and motorbike traffic can get through here. We walked along, stopping frequently to ask directions. Everyone seemed to know just where he lived -  old men, young women, boys, and girls all broke into smiles and instantly pointed the way as if we were following the yellow brick road to the wonderful wizard of Oz.

We finally stopped in front of a large gate and rang the bell. A young girl greeted us and we were escorted through a peaceful garden of plants, trees, and small waterways to a large 3-story home of dark wood and stone. Mr. Pham met us at the door and invited us inside with a sweep of his hand. A bit formal of a gesture, but I took an instant liking to this man and his kind countenance.  We followed him into an airy and bright dining room with open doors that looked out onto the garden and courtyard. The inviting ambiance and calming effects of the feng shui design made me feel instantly at home.

Mr. Pham poured us some tea and settled in to answer my questions. He joined the communist army when he turned 18, engaged in the wars of his country during the 1960s and early 1970s, and suffered two serious injuries before the blast that deafened him took him of commission for good at age 28. Devastated by the loss of his hearing, he struggled to find the will to live at first, attempting suicide three times, until his artist father encouraged him to pursue this therapeutic vocation. Mr Pham went to art school where he met his future wife. “It worked out, you see. I met my partner. It was then that I started to realize that for everything bad in life, there is good to be found,” he explained. “You wait and you will see what it is.”

If 10 years of fighting wars during his formative years once hardened him, there was no indication of any of that now. In a process of healing, Mr Pham tried to focus on the good things in life until the practice became as second nature as his adopted Buddhist faith. His paintings reflect memory snapshots of his military travels throughout Vietnam, but he only uses cheerful colors to convey them. “My father painted with dark colors but I only use the bright ones,” he said. “There is so much light in life. It makes my heart happy to focus on the good instead of the bad things.”

I learned that he can hear a little bit in one ear through the use of a hearing aid, but relies on lip-reading to understand what is being said. “I cannot hear well anymore since the bomb, but when I remove my hearing aid, I can concentrate better on my art. So you see? Again, there is good with the bad.”

Mr Pham invited me to his studio to view samples of his work. “I used to live in the Old Quarter, but then had to move to a bigger house.” He gestured at the paintings around him and laughed, ” Not enough room for all my art and my father’s art!” The work was truly creative - bright colors of oil and acrylic paints splashed across rice papers in abstract designs and portraits of landscapes and people.

He mentors young artists now, including blind children. He explained that he teaches them the concept of hot and cold palettes by running cold water over their hands or hovering their hands over a flame, depending on the color being introduced. “The pictures of the blind children are the very best because they paint from the imagination. I do not have to teach them how to paint with feeling.”

He complemented the Global Foundation for the work we are doing to help hearing impaired children in Vietnam. “it is important for both you and for others, to help the less fortunate turn bad situations into better ones.” He offered to introduce me via email to his circle of artist friends who may be able to lend suport. A kind and unanticipated gesture of friendship.

Our conversation complete, Mr. Pham escorted us out into the serene garden. He extended his hand to take mine and then leaned in to touch each of my cheeks to his own. His eyes crinkled into a warm smile and he paused before nodding his goodbye. No words needed to be said.

Thousands of miles away, there hangs a plaque above the players’ entrance to Center Court at Wimbledon that reads “if you can meet with triumph and disaster and treat those two imposters just the same, yours is the world and all that is in it.”


Who Needs Disneyland?

October 3, 2009 – 11:07 am

One has to appreciate a culture that finds so much to be thankful for and celebrates it all with national holidays. When I came to Thuan An last year, we honored the teachers with wreaths, cards, and a big ceremony on Teacher Appreciation Day. This time, the focus has been on the kids during the annual Children’s Mid-Autumn Festival, or Tet Trung Thu, as its called in Vietnamese. This multi-day celebration leads up to the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, the day of the first full moon closest to the autumn equinox (yeah, I know…my brain stumbled over that complex calculation too)

This Mid-Autumn party takes place during the lunar cycle at the time of year when the moon appears largest in the sky. The moon, in its partial phases, represents the potential of life. Hence, the party follows the lunar cycle as it moves towards fullness, promoting the wish that children, who are in their development stages, will likewise achieve a full life of health, happiness, and prosperity.

In many ancient agricultural cultures, when the nights got longer and the light and heat from the sun decreased in the Fall, there were prayers and ceremonies urging the sun not to forget to rise again. The lanterns that Vietnamese children play with during this festival recall the wish for the return of the sun’s warmth and light. There are several different shapes of lanterns including a five-star version that represents the sun, and a frog-shaped one that represents the moon. There are lanterns which spin around when a candle is placed inside, symbolizing the seasonal spinning of the earth around the sun.

Students from local universities and area schools have been visiting Thuan An all week to celebrate with the children here. Tonight was perhaps the best event yet with hours of carnival-like games, music, and food. When the sun dropped behind the horizon, lanterns were lit up and passed around to the kids who then went on a parade through the school grounds and surrounding streets. The night wrapped up with a large scaly Vietnamese dragon coursing through the crowd of children alongside a man dressed in white wearing a moon mask. They danced together to the heavy beats of the university student drums. Thuy was quick to explain this was no Chinese dragon, but rather a Vietnamese version that expresses the duality of their festivals. This dance between the man, or Lord Earth, and the dragon was a re-enactment of the earth and sky duality, the yin and yang of the world.

It was great to watch everyone running around, laughing, and having such a fun time with it all. They are truly a family of children here – a tight-knit group that eats, studies, plays, and lives together. So many of these kids have absent families – some by fate but others because their parents failed to see how they could ever amount to anything. Thuan An has stepped into a big void in these kids lives – providing a secure and happy place where they can belong and just be kids for awhile.

When the event ended, I walked back to the hotel in the warm, humid night. The university students who put on the show headed back to the city on their motorbikes, three to a seat, waving to me as they passed by. Suddenly one of the motorbikes pulled over and a student I befriended earlier, hopped off. She enthusiastically gestured for me to join the duo for a ride to the hotel. I jogged over with a smile to accept. The good will continues on.


A Day in the Life

October 2, 2009 – 11:15 am

School at Thuan An starts each week with a 7 am Monday morning flag ceremony. Students line up rank and file by age on the cement drive– bright-eyed and uniform in appearance with their pressed light blue and stark white-collared shirts and matching dark blue pants. The choice of footwear is by individual design and that is where true personalities leak out – there’s everything from pink florescent flip flops to Superman plastic sandals to staid black shoes. After the female teachers, dressed in pastel business suits, congregate alongside the children, they all join in to sing the national anthem and the flag is raised on the tall pole in front of the school. That is followed by a recitation of Ho Chi Minh’s creeds - five simple statements to live by – love your country, support your community, protect the environment, live with good intentions, and be courageous. The ceremony always starts with a lot of pomp and seriousness but that usually dissolves as classmates begin to poke and elbow each other in warm familiarity.

The 300 children, ranging from 4 to 20 years of age, then scatter with fluttering hands and excited voices to their classrooms housed in four large, airy buildings. The older children rely completely on sign language while the younger ones are getting their education through the spoken word. When these two groups converge in social settings, sign language is the communications mode of choice.

Vietnamese sign language, like the American edition (ASL), has its own syntax and sentence structure unique to the local spoken language. Its development was influenced by the French, which in turn, was derived from English sign language. Hence, many words and letters in Vietnamese sign are the same or similar to the American version. Since some of the older students understand basic English, I’ve been able to converse with them in a creative combination of rudimentary ASL, and picture drawings and written English on a pad and paper.

The older children sit on plastic stools behind wooden desks as they learn via sign language from the state-designed deaf education curriculum. Their studies end after the 5th grade – effectively eliminating any opportunity to get a high school degree or attend college. Thuy recognizes that these students are fully capable of acquiring more than just five levels of education, and for the past few years, she has arranged for mainstream teachers from secondary level and high schools to visit and teach.

I always try to sneak into the back of the younger children’s classrooms, but these 4 to 7 year olds have eagle eyes and jump at the chance to stand up, bow, and in exaggerated unison, greet me with a boisterous “Chao Co”. If the smiling faces, glowing eyes, and enthusiastic welcome from a group of 6-year-olds doesn’t put you into a good mood, well then, nothing will. Each of the three young teachers work with about 12 of these children at a time and its admirable to watch them captivate, entertain, and teach - all while managing the kinetic energy that these little guys have. Something unplanned happens every single day in these rooms as a result. Just yesterday, I joined a spontaneous train of kiddos as we hopped, shimmied, danced, sang, and laughed our way around the room and through the hallways in an effort to burn off some of their pent up liveliness on a rainy afternoon.

Across the way are small therapy rooms where 4, 5, and 6 year olds sit with Ms. Tam and practice speech and listening skills. They scrunch their faces in concentration as they listen to words and sentences said behind them and then attempt to repeat or answer questions. Ms. Tam is patient and kind, wrapping her arms gently around their shoulders as she encourages them to listen to her voice or say a word correctly. She celebrates each tiny success, and her young stewards respond with radiant smiles. They end the 15 minute sessions with a carefully chosen sticker, a hug, and a bow before the child rejoins his or her peers in class.

Upstairs, infants and toddlers engage in Early Intervention sessions. When you’re born without hearing sound and are amplified with hearing aids later, the brain has a lot of catching up to do in terms of auditory mapping and language acquisition. Ms Lan helps them do just that, coaching family members as they play, talk, and encourage speech from these youngest members of Thuan An.

At 4 pm, a cacophony of motorbikes converges on the school as parents pick up their children. Since 100 of the students are boarders, the day doesn’t end with the last class, but rather much later. After dinner, games, and homework, a staff of nuns leads them upstairs to bed. The boarding school environment and shared experience has created a strong bond among the children here. The older kids look out for the younger ones. It’s a real family environment.

Overseeing this complex operation are Ms Thuy, the Executive Director and Sister Dao, the Education Director. Sister Dao is a Catholic nun with a dry sense of humor and a comfortable-in-her-skin vibe. I can’t help but find myself waiting for her to break out into some Sound of Music song with the devoted and warm “Maria” way in which she interacts with the children.

There’s a lot to deal with but these women have multi-tasking down to a science. It’s a bit of a throwback in some ways. There is no inter-school conferencing system - teachers call each other on their cell phones. Faxes are popular. Email is not widely used. There are no credit cards. Food staples are purchased in bulk at the farmer’s market in the village and a large team of cooks prepares scores of meals fresh daily – no Lunchables here. Perhaps most striking is the fact that whenever Thuy makes a service telephone call, she gets a live person on the other end – no automated menus or voicemail.

Just like those weekly flag ceremonies, the school combines order and principled living with a whole lot of personality and charisma.


Changing Fate

September 26, 2009 – 9:30 am

People are the same everywhere. Our cultures are different, our skin color, our clothes…but at the end of the day, everyone wants to feel secure, have a roof over their head, food on the table, an education for their children, connections with friends and family. What’s great about travel is the opportunity it affords to observe how other people strive towards these same end results. The way they lead their lives, how they treat those around them, the importance (or not) of family and community. Travel provides a measuring stick against which you can assess your values and ideals.

You can become a different person in the context of a place.  While at Ho Chi Minh University and the Thuan An school this week, the students bowed to me in customary respect as we passed in the halls, and I suddenly felt much older than my years. In the US, my 5′7″ frame is ordinary, but here, I am a giant. I have to watch my head as I walk beneath market umbrellas and the canopies hanging over merchant stalls.

Travel leads you to think about what your life would be like if you lived in this place. Would I be unfazed by the relentless stream of motorbikes as I crossed the street? Would I be sitting on some tiny stool or plastic chair along with my family on the sidewalk during the daily lunch respite? It is interesting to think that the initial course of our lives is very much affected by things we don’t control. Where we are born. Who our parents are. Our social economic status. Our talents. Our disabilities. All of these set your course.

In Asia, I am reminded again by the fact that so much of the world scraps by for a living. In the US, steady jobs and regular paychecks are relatively common. There are 401Ks and IRAs to safeguard your retirement. Here, things are different. You’ve got impromptu taxis in the way of motorbikers, kids who will shine your shoes, tiny old women wandering the streets selling food from bananas to waffles. People get creative to make a buck. I’m reminded of last year in Vietnam when I passed by a golf course that sat across the street from a very poor neighborhood. The local kids collected way-laid golf balls from the garbage dump and bushes that surrounded the high walls of the lush green course. They cleaned them up and resold the balls along the street to golfers on their way to the course. A friend of mine told me about unofficial scrap peddlers in Shanghai who collect scrap for money, and in the process, keep the city clear of trash. It is amazing - the human fortitude to survive.

In this environment, communication is essential. There’s no email or website to promote your product or service. If you want business, you have to market yourself. Kids with hearing loss in developing countries who don’t have good language skills face some really tough odds for leading independent lives. What’s frustrating is that this doesn’t have to be the case. Hearing loss can be overcome and language can be acquired. What’s needed is better technology, and more education and training to produce more and better teachers. That combination, in turn, will give more of these kids a chance at success.

Life. We can’t change the hand we’re dealt. What we can do though is help each other make the best of what we’ve got.

Please visit www.childrenwithhearingloss.org to learn more about what is being done to help hearing-impaired children in developing countries get access to the resources and education they need to achieve their fullest potential as contributing members of society.


Heaven, Earth, and the Rain In-Between

September 19, 2009 – 9:13 am

“Be careful, your head”, the guide called over his shoulder as he shined his flashlight on me. “It is tight here. Also, be careful your back.” He nodded at my acknowledgement before turning forward to lead me hunched over through the narrow passageway. I was huddled in the infamous Cu Chi tunnels - a massive 75-mile underground maze of secret meeting rooms, sleeping areas, triages, kitchens, and wells where the Viet Cong lived and fought during the Vietnam War. These hand-carved tunnels are part of a larger network of passageways underlying much of Vietnam that has been used throughout history to conduct warfare against invading armies. People dropped into these tunnels through camoflaged entryways and would live down here for years, breathing the thin air and warding off poisonous snakes and scorpions. Guerillas protected the network above-ground with vicious booby traps and snares that showcased just how inhumane war can be. As I toured the compound, I was sobered by the thought that the Taliban’s operation in Afghanistan is probably just as complex and mortifying.

After visiting Cu Chi, it was refreshing to take in the artistic beauty of the Cao-Dai Holy See Temple, the spiritual center of the Cao Dai faith. This broad religion includes elements of Buddhism, Christianity, Confucianism, and Islam, and its followers wear either white suits or colorful robes, each color denoting the root of Cao Daism they practice. I witnessed one of their meditation ceremonies and was left mesmerized by the singing chants, woodwind music, and drum gongs that reverberated throughout the beautiful temple.

Yesterday, an impressive tropical storm hit HCM City. I was waiting for the Vietnam History Museum to open for the afternoon, huddled under a canopy at the ticket booth when these two men inside the art gallery next door urged me to join them. They offered me a cup of tea and we sat around a little table with me in the guest of honor seat - a green plastic lawn chair. Since we didn’t speak each other’s language, one of the men broke out some paper and a pen so that we could draw pictures to ask questions of each other. I learned that one of the men created all of the art in this gallery. I was impressed by the works, which looked like paintings, but were actually designs constructed of very tiny colored rocks. They tried to explain to me how this work was created, but I never quite got their gist…. Meanwhile, the rain was coming down in sheets and started to drip through the ceiling. One of the men got a bunch of sand buckets and we worked together, laughing as we jockeyed around the room to time the drips and place the buckets to collect the rain. They seemed more concerned that their art was safe than the implications of a leak in the roof.
When the gallery finally opened, I thanked them both and said goodbye in Vietnamese. We had clearly become friends during this process because they took the time to correct my intonation - complete with a elaborate visual demonstration of how I should be positioning my tongue. I still don’t think I have those words quite right….